Showing posts with label war. Show all posts
Showing posts with label war. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Memorial


Rwanda is a beautiful country in many ways. Its landscape is awe-inspiring. It is probably one of the cleanest places we have ever been. It is making advances in health that far outpace most African countries. However, worldwide it is most well-known for the horrible atrocities that took place during the 100-day genocide of 1994.

Next week marks the 19th anniversary of the start of the genocide. April 7th is the National Day of Mourning, and the following week is Remembrance Week. For Rwandans, this idea of remembering, the necessity of not forgetting, is incredibly important. On genocide memorials throughout the country, of which there are many, the slogan ‘Never Again’ appears repeatedly. And with good reason.

As Westerners, we have become incredibly familiar with the 1994 genocide. We have seen documentaries and Hollywood biopics about it; it is the first thing that comes to mind whenever Rwanda is mentioned. However, it was not, in fact, the first genocide in Rwandan history. Or even the first one to take place in the 20th century. 

The Hutu-Tutsi conflict has had incredibly high death tolls. Between 1959 and 1961, 100,000 Tutsis were massacred by Hutus. In 1972 in neighboring Burundi, somewhere between 80,000 and 200,000 Hutus were slaughtered by Tutsis in 1972. And in 1994, the dead numbered between 800,000 and a million Tutsis, killed at the hands of Hutus. The violence has been systemic, retaliatory, and brutal, with surprisingly short intervals between genocidal outbreaks. Today, the tribal clash continues in the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

With so few years between these genocides, in a culture where tribal heritage is important, and where the clash continues in neighboring countries, it is no wonder that the need to keep ‘Remembrance’ alive and well is so vital in the Rwandan psyche. It is seen in the presence of numerous genocide memorials across the country, in the respect and solemnity of Remembrance Week.

Though, of the practicalities of some genocide memorials in general (I am including my experience of Cambodia, as well), I have mixed feelings, particularly in relation to the use of the skulls of victims in these memorials. I understand that they bring home the reality of the atrocity, but do these victims, even if their identity is unknown, not deserve a proper burial? Do we need to see mass graves full of bones and clothing in order to understand, or should these people be put to rest? Why is it that a map made of skulls is considered disrespectful and dismantled, as happened in Cambodia, but shelves, temples, churches and mass graves full of skulls and bones is acceptable? Are pictures of the victims, something with a face and a name, a remnant of life, not a more vital reminder than nameless, faceless skulls?

But, I digress. Whichever side of that debate you fall on, there is no denying the importance of honoring the victims, as well as the importance of remembering in order to not allow these things to happen again. Thanks to the Rwandans’ efforts in this realm, the country today is a remarkably safe place; its future is bright, its people one unified group. 

Monday, May 2, 2011

The American War


While a difference of perspective was to be expected, we were blown away by the overall portrayal of the Vietnam War in Vietnamese museums. There was no talk of it having anything to do with north versus south; it was Vietnam versus the American soldiers. The South Vietnamese? Oh they were just waiting for the North to liberate them. 


The Hanoi Hilton first displayed pictures of the atrocities performed by the French when imprisoning Vietnamese patriots, followed immediately by pictures demonstrating what pleasant lives American soldiers shot down over Hanoi enjoyed in the prison. They played chess and basketball; John McCain received the best medical treatment. The Vietnamese nursed the soldiers back to health; they even let them have pets and huge Christmas celebrations. Torture? Not on their watch.


In each museum, there was an exhibit about how the rest of the world stood behind Vietnam in protests and rallies. Nothing to do with peace. They just were supporting (North) Vietnam against the Americans. Remember that monk who committed self immolation? Also listed as a supporter of Vietnam, not peace.


The War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City (or still Saigon to everyone in Vietnam) displayed war-era photos of soldiers “smiling after killing Vietnamese patriots” and the like. The Historical Truths exhibit claimed that we were there because we were afraid of losing the tin exported from Vietnam. And at the Cu Chi Tunnels we watched a video about the villagers, pivotal in winning the war against the Americans, who were awarded the Hero Medal for Killing American Soldiers.  

It was almost enough to make us use fake British accents. If only it weren’t quite so twisted and one-sided. Way to go, Communism.