Up close, an elephant is a creature like no other. Gentle eyes the speak of unplumbed emotional depth, stubbly hair across smoky-grey flesh. Riding on the back of an elephant, you tower and lurch, high above the world.
Blessed with remarkably quick wits, we have seen elephants
perform incredible feats. Dancing and hoolahooping, painting and playing soccer,
even drinking soda through a straw; elephants have a knack for learning. Among
Thailand’s hill tribes, a number are native mahouts and elephant herders, holding
annual Elephant Roundups, hundreds of elephants displaying their talents.
Small town men will purchase elephants, parading them around
town selling sugar cane to pedestrians or people in restaurants in order to
feed the elephants (which will then be locked in too-small yards until the next
night’s circuit). Standing on the sidewalk, bobbing his or her head along with
the music, swaying with a remembered dance, the elephant will wait patiently
for another handful of food.
Such treatment isn’t befitting of such elegant giants, but the treatment of elephants seems to be getting ever-better. No longer will you
see elephants being exploited thus on Bangkok’s Khao San Road, or anywhere in
Bangkok. And many of the formerly mistreated elephants from Bangkok have been
sent north, living out their lives in elephant camps and orphanages, given fresh
air and open spaces, tromping through jungle rather than city streets, and fed
on a regular basis. While many of these places operate as tourist attractions
as well, the conditions are kept under closer scrutiny, hopefully providing
better quality of life for the liberated pachyderms.
Leathery skin, wrinkles like canyons spreading across their broad
backs, bristle-like hair springing up among the cracks and gullies. Ears flap
like massive water-soaked flags, slapping their sides as they sway, huge gait,
like a minivan on legs. Big, bright, long-lased eyes sparkle with depthless
sentience. A curious trunk twists above stray chin whiskers, searching for
anything edible. Lumbering, weathered and majestic, elephants have been a
magical presence in our travels.
